Peru Travel Diary: Cusco to Machu Picchu — My Unforgettable Journey Through the Andes
- Mar 2, 2023
- 15 min read
Updated: Jun 12
There are places you dream about for years, and then there are places that feel almost impossible until the moment you finally stand there.
For me, Machu Picchu was one of those places.
After beginning my Peru journey in Lima and the desert oasis of Huacachina, I was ready for the part of the trip that had lived in my imagination the longest: Cusco, the Andes, and the ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. I had seen the photos so many times before — the green terraces, the stone ruins, the mountains wrapped around them like a secret — but seeing it in real life was something completely different.
This Peru travel diary is not a full step-by-step guide. It is the personal side of my journey from Cusco to Machu Picchu: the early flight, the altitude adjustment, the changed trek plan, the mountain roads, the rainforest trails, the hot springs, the tired legs, and the unforgettable morning when I finally saw one of the world’s most iconic places with my own eyes.
If you are planning the practical side of the same trip, read my how to visit Machu Picchu guide for tickets, routes, train options, trekking choices, and first-time visitor tips.
About Peru for First-Time Visitors
Peru is one of the most fascinating countries in South America, especially for travelers who love ancient history, dramatic landscapes, colorful culture, and adventure. It is best known for Machu Picchu, Cusco, the Sacred Valley, the Andes Mountains, Lake Titicaca, the Amazon rainforest, and the desert landscapes near places like Huacachina and Paracas.
The capital city is Lima, which is usually the main international entry point for travelers. The currency is the Peruvian sol, and Spanish is the main language, although Quechua and Aymara are also spoken in different regions. Peru’s climate changes a lot depending on where you are. Lima can feel coastal and dry, Cusco is high-altitude and cool, while the jungle and lower valleys can feel warmer and more humid.
For first-time travelers, Peru can feel adventurous but rewarding. The country has a mix of modern cities, ancient ruins, mountain towns, local markets, scenic train routes, and long-distance travel options. Food is also a major part of the experience, with dishes like ceviche, lomo saltado, alpaca, quinoa soup, and local Andean meals.
What makes Peru special is how quickly the landscape changes. One day you can be walking through the streets of Lima, the next you can be in the desert, and a few days later you can be surrounded by mountains in Cusco. That constant change is what made my Peru journey feel so alive.
Leaving Lima for Cusco
My journey to Cusco began early in the morning in Miraflores, Lima. I packed my belongings, checked out of my hotel, and made my way to the Visitor’s Center, where I planned to catch the Airport Express Lima bus.
I had learned about this bus from Peru Hop while researching airport transport. For beginner travelers, this kind of small information can make a big difference. You can either pre-book your seat online or show up at the scheduled time, depending on availability and your comfort level.
While waiting for the bus, I remembered something important from my research: Cusco sits at a high altitude, and altitude sickness can affect travelers quickly. I did not want to take chances, so I went to a nearby pharmacy and bought altitude sickness medicine called Altivital.
There was a small language barrier, but with basic Spanish and the help of locals who understood a little English, I managed to buy what I needed. It was one of those little travel moments that reminded me how helpful it is to learn even a few basic phrases before visiting a new country.
Before flying to high-altitude destinations like Cusco, I always remind myself that travel planning is not only about flights and hotels. It is also about preparing your body, your documents, your internet access, and your backup options.
After buying the medicine, I returned to the bus stop just in time. The airport shuttle arrived, I paid the tourist fare, and we drove through Lima’s morning traffic toward the airport.
A Lesson at Lima Airport
I arrived at Lima airport around 10:00 AM for my flight to Cusco, which was scheduled for 1:33 PM. I thought I had enough time, but airport processes can always surprise you.
When I reached the Viva Air desk, I was charged an extra fee because I had not confirmed my flight booking online. I remembered receiving an email, but I did not realize failing to respond or complete the online step would cost me extra at the airport.
It was frustrating, but it became another travel lesson.
Some airlines have strict online check-in or confirmation rules, and first-time travelers should always read airline emails carefully before flying. If there is an option to check in online, confirm your
booking, or download your boarding pass before arriving at the airport, do it as early as possible.
I paid the fee by credit card and went straight to my gate. The boarding area was already busy, and soon after, it was time to fly to Cusco.
First Views of Cusco from the Sky
The flight from Lima to Cusco was short, around one hour, but the view from the window made it unforgettable.
As the plane descended, the landscape changed completely. The coast and city gave way to mountains, forests, valleys, and earthy-colored buildings shaped by the terrain. Cusco looked like a city folded into the Andes.
By the time we landed at Cusco airport, it was around 3:00 PM.
The airport was easy to navigate, and soon I was outside meeting the taxi driver arranged by my hotel. He was parked a short distance from the arrival area, and we drove toward the historic center of Cusco.
That ride already felt like a sightseeing tour.
The roads curved through the city, passing stone buildings, cobblestone streets, old walls, and locals dressed in colorful traditional clothing. I saw llamas and alpacas waiting for tourists to take photos. The air felt crisp and cool. I could feel immediately that I had arrived somewhere different from Lima.
Arriving in Cusco’s Historic Center
I stayed at Yabar Hotel Plaza, close to Cusco Cathedral. The hotel entrance was tucked along a cobblestone alleyway, with a heavy wooden door that matched the old-world atmosphere of the city.

When I arrived, the hotel staff welcomed me kindly and offered coca leaf tea, a common local remedy for altitude adjustment. I had already bought medicine in Lima, so I declined, but I appreciated the gesture.

At that point, hunger won over rest. I asked the hotel staff for restaurant recommendations and went out to find food.
Walking around Cusco was beautiful, but it also felt like a small hike. The sloping cobblestone streets made every short walk feel more demanding, especially while adjusting to the altitude. But the city had a charm that made every step worth it: old buildings, plazas, narrow streets, and mountain air.
I found a restaurant on the second floor overlooking a square. I ordered food, enjoyed a mojito, and let myself absorb the moment.
Cusco felt ancient, colorful, and alive.
“When I arrive in a new city, having mobile data gives me peace of mind — especially for checking hotel locations, taxi details, maps, and last-minute travel updates.”
The Trek Plan That Changed
That evening, I kept thinking about my original plan. I had booked a 5-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu, but because of political unrest at the time, my tour operator suggested a different route: the 4-day Inca Jungle Trek.
At first, I was disappointed. When you dream of a specific route, changing plans can feel like losing part of the experience. But travel often asks you to adjust, and in this case, the alternative still allowed me to continue toward Machu Picchu instead of canceling the journey.
Later that night, my guide came to my hotel to brief me on what to expect. The hotel also offered to store my extra luggage securely while I went on the trek, which was a huge help. I packed only what I needed into a small hiking bag and prepared myself mentally for the adventure ahead.
I went to sleep knowing that the next day would begin before sunrise.
Day 1 of the Inca Jungle Trek: Cusco to Santa Maria
At around 5:00 AM, my guide arrived at the hotel to pick me up. I carried my 5-liter hiking bag, and we met our driver near the main square of Cusco.
As we left the city, the morning light slowly spread over the mountains. The air was cold, but the excitement kept me awake.
Our first stop was Ollantaytambo, a town known for its Inca ruins, terraces, and beautiful mountain setting. We had breakfast there, and I also bought a few essentials for the hike, including mosquito repellent and a sun hat.
That was when I realized something surprising: I was the only person who had signed up for the tour.
What was supposed to be a group tour suddenly became a private tour.
It was unexpected, but it made the experience feel more personal. I had the guide’s full attention, the schedule felt more flexible, and the journey became quieter in a way I did not expect.
Passing Through Ollantaytambo
The drive through Ollantaytambo and the surrounding mountains was breathtaking. The town felt like a living piece of history, with old houses, Inca ruins, terraces, and rugged scenery all around.
The road continued through the mountains with sharp curves, climbs, and descents. At times, the ride felt like a roller coaster. We passed landscapes filled with llamas, alpacas, small communities, and wide views of the Andes.
Somewhere along the route, we stopped for a biking activity. This was added as part of the adjusted tour plan after the original Salkantay route changed. For about two hours, we biked through the landscape, and the experience brought out a childlike excitement in me.
It was not the trek I originally imagined, but it had its own kind of joy.
After biking, we continued by vehicle toward Santa Maria, where I would spend the night.
Night in Santa Maria
We reached Santa Maria around 1:00 PM and went to a nearby eatery for lunch. My guide and I discussed the plan for the next day while eating local food.
Santa Maria felt quiet and simple, surrounded by mountains and local life. My accommodation and meals were included in the tour package, which made the journey easier. This is something I always recommend checking before booking any trek or tour: know exactly what is included.
Does it include meals? Accommodation? Entrance tickets? Transport? Guide fees? Pick-up and drop-off? These details matter, especially for first-time travelers or budget-conscious travelers.
It was Christmas Eve, but instead of celebrating loudly, I chose to rest. The next day would be the real hiking day, and I knew I needed my energy.
Day 2: Hiking Through Rainforest, Farms, and Mountain Trails
The next morning, the hike began.
We walked along rugged roads built into the mountainside, then entered lush rainforest areas. After about an hour, we came across a beautiful waterfall spilling down the rocks. The sound of the water, the green surroundings, and the cool mountain air made the hike feel cinematic.
Along the trail, I saw fruit trees, oranges, avocados, and signs of local farming life. My guide pointed out places connected to coffee farmers and explained parts of the landscape as we walked.
The route took us up steep hillsides with views of the Urubamba River below. It was beautiful, but it was also physically demanding. Then the rain came.
With my poncho on, we continued walking through farms, local homes, muddy sections, and mountain paths. The rain made everything feel more dramatic, but also more challenging. It was not a polished, comfortable travel experience. It was raw, wet, tiring, and real.
We stopped for lunch at a farmer’s house on the mountainside. The rain grew stronger while we rested, and for a moment, it felt like we were hidden deep inside Peru’s tropical mountain world.
Crossing the River and Reaching Cocalmayo Hot Springs
After lunch, we continued the hike with the river guiding us through the landscape.
One of the most memorable parts of the day was crossing a steel bridge and later taking a manually operated cable ride to get across the river. It felt adventurous in a very simple, local way — not manufactured, not overly touristy, just part of the journey.
By around 4:00 PM, we reached Cocalmayo.
And it was exactly what my tired body needed: hot springs.
After hours of hiking in the rain, soaking in warm, clear water while surrounded by mountains felt like a reward. It was one of those travel moments that does not need much explanation. You are tired, wet, and sore — and suddenly, nature gives you a place to rest.
Later, we took a tricycle ride to Santa Teresa, where we stayed for the night.
Looking back, that day was one of the richest parts of the journey. It had waterfalls, rainforest, farms, river crossings, rain, local homes, mountain views, and hot springs. It reminded me that reaching Machu Picchu was not only about the final destination. The route itself was already part of the story.
Day 3: Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes
The next morning in Santa Teresa was slow and practical. We used the hotel rooftop to dry our damp clothes, and from there, I could see how beautifully the town sat between the mountains.
Around midday, we left Santa Teresa by van. Our first stop was Wayna Picchu restaurant, where we had a buffet lunch before beginning the next trek.
This day’s walk would take around three to four hours toward Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo.
The trail followed unpaved paths, riverbanks, forested areas, steel bridges, and train tracks. Other trekkers were also making their way toward the same destination, all hoping to reach Aguas Calientes before dark.
There was something special about walking beside the train tracks. It felt like we were slowly approaching a hidden place, step by step.
Then I saw the sign: “Machu Picchu, Ciudad del Mundo.”
That sign gave me energy. After days of movement, rain, sweat, and changing landscapes, I could finally feel how close we were.
Soon, Aguas Calientes appeared.
“Trips like this reminded me that travel insurance is not only for emergencies. It is also for peace of mind when plans change, flights surprise you, or your body reacts differently in a high-altitude destination.”
Arriving in Aguas Calientes
Aguas Calientes is the gateway town to Machu Picchu. It sits in a deep valley surrounded by steep green mountains, with rivers running through it and restaurants, hotels, markets, and shops built along narrow streets.
Compared with the rugged trails, Aguas Calientes felt lively and comfortable. It had the energy of a place where every traveler was waiting for the same thing: the morning visit to Machu Picchu.
I stayed at Wiñay Wayna, arranged by my tour operator. After checking in, my guide brought me to a local restaurant for dinner. The meal felt especially satisfying after a long day of walking.
But by then, my legs were exhausted and swollen. The original plan involved more uphill hiking the next day, but after discussing it with my guide, we decided to take the bus to the citadel instead.
The roundtrip bus cost around $30 at the time of my visit, and honestly, it was the right decision. Sometimes travel is not about forcing yourself to suffer just because a route sounds more adventurous. Sometimes the wiser choice is to save your energy for the experience that matters most.
That evening, we walked around Aguas Calientes. I also got a Machu Picchu stamp in my passport with the help of my guide — a small souvenir from a journey that already felt meaningful.
I went to bed early, tired but excited.
The next morning, I would finally see Machu Picchu.
Day 4: The Morning I Finally Saw Machu Picchu
The morning arrived with a sense of anticipation I will never forget.
We walked to the bus stop and caught one of the early buses up to Machu Picchu. I was lucky to sit at the front, where the large windshield gave me a clear view of the road climbing the mountain.
The ride took around 30 minutes, winding through curves and switchbacks. With every turn, my excitement grew.
When we reached the entrance, we used the restroom, prepared our tickets, and walked toward the gate.
And then, finally, there it was.
Machu Picchu.
It felt surreal. For years, I had only known it from photos, postcards, videos, and travel dreams. But standing there in person was different. The terraces, the stone paths, the mountains, the alpacas, the green slopes — everything felt alive.
I was not just looking at a famous view anymore.
I was inside it.
Walking Through the Ancient Citadel
We started exploring early, when only a few other visitors were around. That quiet morning atmosphere made the experience even more powerful.
As an architect, I was deeply moved by the craftsmanship. The stonework, the walls, the terraces, the stairs, and the way the structures worked with the mountain landscape all showed a level of skill that felt almost impossible to imagine.
The Inca builders created something that did not fight nature. It belonged to the mountain.
Some walls had repaired sections, and while restoration is important for preservation, the original Inca stonework still stood out. The precision, patience, and intelligence behind the construction were incredible.
I also found myself thinking about how ancient civilizations studied the sky. Like the Mayans I had learned about in Mexico, the Incas seemed deeply connected to astronomy, agriculture, and the natural world.
Walking through Machu Picchu made me feel small, but in a beautiful way. It reminded me that human beings have always looked for meaning, beauty, shelter, knowledge, and connection — even in the most difficult landscapes.
The Iconic Machu Picchu View
Eventually, we reached the famous viewpoint — the one I had seen in countless photos.
The terraces opened below, the stone city stretched across the mountain ridge, and Huayna Picchu rose behind it like a guardian.
I paused there for a while.
That moment was emotional because it felt like the entire journey had led to that single view: leaving Lima, flying to Cusco, adjusting to the altitude, changing the trek plan, biking through the mountains, walking through rain, soaking in hot springs, following train tracks, reaching Aguas Calientes, and waking up early to enter the citadel.
All of it became part of that view.
Machu Picchu was not only beautiful because of what it looked like. It was beautiful because of what it took to get there.

Returning to Aguas Calientes
After exploring the site, we took the bus back down to Aguas Calientes.
I felt tired, but it was the good kind of tired — the kind that comes after doing something you had dreamed about for a long time. I had checked another wonder of the world off my bucket list, but more than that, I had lived through a journey that challenged me and rewarded me in ways I did not expect.
I still had some time before my train, so I walked around Aguas Calientes, looked for souvenirs, and absorbed the last pieces of the town before leaving.
At around 2:00 PM, I boarded the train back toward Ollantaytambo. The train had panoramic windows, and as the mountains passed by, I found myself quietly reflecting on the last few days.
This time, I was alone.
After days of walking with my guide, moving through mountains, and meeting new landscapes, the train ride felt like a gentle ending.
My tour operator arranged for my pickup from Ollantaytambo, and later that day, I returned to Cusco.
That night, I contacted my loved ones and shared the story with them. It reminded me that one of the best parts of travel is not only what we see, but what we bring back — the stories, the lessons, and the feeling of having become a little braver.
Practical Lessons From My Cusco to Machu Picchu Journey
This was a travel diary, but there are still lessons I would share with first-time travelers planning a similar Peru trip.
For travelers planning this route, I recommend reading a broader Peru travel guide for first-time visitors before booking everything separately. It helps you understand how Lima, Huacachina, Cusco, Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain, and Lake Titicaca can connect in one realistic journey.
Give Yourself Time to Adjust to Cusco
Cusco is beautiful, but the altitude is real. Walk slowly, hydrate, avoid rushing on your first day, and listen to your body. Some travelers use coca tea, some use medication, and some need more rest than expected.
Read Airline Emails Carefully
My Lima to Cusco flight taught me to always check airline emails before flying. Online check-in, booking confirmation, baggage rules, and document requirements can affect your cost and airport experience.
Be Flexible With Your Trek Plan
I originally planned to do the Salkantay Trek, but the situation changed and I ended up doing the Inca Jungle Trek instead. It was not what I first imagined, but it still became one of the most memorable parts of my Peru journey.
Check What Your Tour Includes
Before booking a trek, check if meals, accommodation, entrance tickets, transport, guide fees, luggage storage, and return transfers are included. This helps avoid surprises and makes budgeting easier.
Do Not Force the Hardest Option
Taking the bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu was the right decision for me because my legs were already exhausted. You do not need to prove anything when you travel. Choose the option that lets you enjoy the experience safely and fully.
Start Early for Machu Picchu
The early morning visit felt more peaceful and gave me time to enjoy the site before larger crowds arrived. If you can choose an early entry time, it can make the experience feel more special.
For travelers planning this route, I recommend organizing your Peru itinerary before booking everything separately. It helps you understand how Lima, Huacachina, Cusco, Machu Picchu, Rainbow Mountain, and Lake Titicaca can connect in one realistic journey.
Final Thoughts: Why This Journey Stayed With Me
My journey from Cusco to Machu Picchu was not perfect.
The original trek changed. I dealt with altitude concerns. I paid an unexpected airport fee. My clothes got wet. My legs became swollen. The hike was tiring, and some parts of the journey were uncomfortable.
But that is exactly why it stayed with me.
Machu Picchu was not just a destination I visited. It was a reward at the end of a moving, imperfect, unforgettable path through Peru’s mountains, forests, rivers, towns, and ancient stories.
Standing there, surrounded by stone terraces and green peaks, I understood why so many travelers dream of this place. It is not only about seeing a famous landmark. It is about feeling how far people can go — ancient builders, modern travelers, and even ordinary dreamers like me who once only saw this place in photos.
After Machu Picchu, my Peru journey was not over. The road would continue toward Rainbow Mountain, Puno, Lake Titicaca, and eventually Bolivia.
But this part of the journey — Cusco to Machu Picchu — will always be one of the moments that reminded me why I travel.
Not because everything goes smoothly.
But because even the difficult parts can become part of the story.







































