Jamaica had always lived in my imagination as a place of reggae music, white-sand beaches, Bob Marley, jerk chicken, waterfalls, and that relaxed Caribbean rhythm you always hear about. But when I finally visited Jamaica in December 2017, I realized the island was more than the postcard version I had in my mind. It was beautiful, yes. The beaches were clear, the music was everywhere, the sunsets were dramatic, and the waterfalls felt like something from a tropical dream. But